E-Ride Pro SR Assembly Guide

Getting your E-Ride Pro SR from crate to first ride? This step-by-step E Ride Pro SR assembly guide mirrors our popular format—clear tools list, numbered steps, torque tips, and a final pre-ride checklist—so you can assemble confidently and avoid the common gotchas we see in first builds. 

Watch & wrench along with our step-by-step assembly video

Tools & Supplies

• Hex/Allen keys: 3 mm, 4 mm, 5 mm, 6 mm

• Wrenches/Sockets: 13 mm, two × 19 mm (axle ends), 14 mm (crate/base)

• Drivers: Phillips screwdriver; side-cutters; needle-nose pliers

• Optional: Small rubber mallet

• Consumables: Blue medium-strength threadlocker (Loctite 243), shop towels, nitrile gloves

• Support: Bike stand or sturdy block/crate to lift the front

Torque cheat sheet (general guidance when no OEM spec is provided):
• Fork pinch bolts: 9–12 N·m (80–106 in-lb)
• Rotor & small M5/M6 hardware: 5–8 N·m (44–71 in-lb)
• Bar clamp (M8): 16–22 N·m (12–16 ft-lb)

Before You Start

• Unbox smart: Use the crate/box as a “trash bin” to collect wrap, foam, and zip-ties as you go.

• Early SR note: Some first batches ship with the short tail seat/subframe. Assemble as delivered; seat/subframe updates will be communicated separately by E-Ride.

• Battery safety: You’ll remove and charge the pack early. It weighs ~48 lb—lift with good posture.

Step-by-Step Assembly

1) Remove the Battery & Begin Charging

1. Turn the key to unlock the battery lid; press down slightly, then lift the lid.

2. Lift the pack straight up and out (mind the weight). Do not plug into the small comms port; the round port is the charger input.

3. Plug the charger into the battery first, then the wall. Charger LED shows charging → full; the pack status light displays SOC.

2) Free the Bike & Prep the Rear Shock Bolt

• Remove any crate straps/bolts.

• Pull the rear shock bolt, insert the two bushings (some units include a spare set), then thread the bolt back in a few turns so you won’t forget it later. This frees the chassis for the stand.

3) Mount to a Stand & Loosen Transport Keepers

• Place the bike on a stand or sturdy block.

• Snip the transport zip-ties securing the front and rear brakes and the front wheel. Keep the caliper pad spacer for future brake work.

4) Cockpit On (Loose)

1. Set the handlebar in the upper clamp and install the four clamp bolts lightly so the bar can still rotate.

2. Slide on the front brake master (5 mm clamp bolts) and the throttle housing (Phillips/4 mm). Route cables cleanly with gentle curves—no sharp bends.

Throttle safety: Twist and release. It must snap shut instantly. If it drags, reposition the housing/grip until return is crisp.

5) Front Wheel & Spacers

1. Apply a light film of grease to the front axle.

2. Insert the axle partially from the right side.

3. Fit one spacer into the disc side hub.

4. Slide the rotor between the pads, align fork legs, and push the axle through.

5. Thread in the two 19 mm axle end bolts and snug to seat the axle (right-hand thread both sides—no Loctite needed).

6. Center the fork: Squeeze the front brake and bounce the fork once.

7. Tighten fork pinch bolts evenly, alternating sides (≈ 9–12 N·m / 80–106 in-lb).

6) Rear Mud Guard

• Remove the four guard screws, add blue Loctite 243 threadlocker, and reinstall. Bring all to light tension first, then snug by hand. The guard is stretchy—align carefully to avoid cross-threading.

7) Foot Pegs (Left/Right) & Fold Direction

• Pegs are labeled HX-R (right) / HX-L (left).

• Install with the supplied nylon-insert lock nuts (no extra Loctite needed).

• Verify pegs fold up and back (toward the rear). If they fold forward, swap sides.

8) Front Fender & Number Plate

• Fender: Three shoulder bolts into the lower triple—add blue threadlocker. Start with the rear bolt, then the two front bolts; do not over-tighten (aluminum threads).

• Number plate: Fit with the included large zip-ties. Leave slightly loose until cockpit is finalized.

9) Display & Harness Connections

• Mount the display clamp (3 mm screws) to the bar.

• Connect the display plug under the top triple: align the notch/arrows and press fully home—no visible gap.

• Match color-coded waterproof plugs (e.g., green→green, red→red for brake sensors).

• Route the loom in front of the head tube with generous slack; zip-tie so full lock-to-lock steering is strain-free.

10) Finalize Cockpit Fit

• Sit on the bike; set bar roll and lever angle so lever blades align with your outstretched index finger line.

• Tighten the bar clamp in a cross pattern with even gaps front/back (≈ 16–22 N·m / 12–16 ft-lb).

• Re-check throttle snap-back after clamping.

11) Re-insert the Battery & Power-Up

1. Refit the pack, seat it fully, and secure the latch.

2. Ignition has three detents: OFF → PRE-CHARGE → ON. If the dash doesn’t wake after sitting, switch to PRE-CHARGE for ~5 s, then to ON.

3. Basic Controls: 

   • Press P (Park) to enter READY. 

   • Tap M (left cluster) to cycle Eco → Sport → Race. 

   • Regen has 1/2/3 levels. 

   • Hold R and roll the throttle for reverse (walk speed). 

   • Headlight button is under the lamp. USB-A/USB-C ports live below.

12) Optional: App Pairing & First Tweaks

• Install “E-Ride Pro” (iOS/Android). Power the bike, then Search Nearby and select your SR.

• Default Bluetooth password: ERP123 (all caps). Rename the device (e.g., “SR-Garage”).

• Common first tweaks: **CAUTION: USE SETTINGS AT YOUR OWN RISK**

  • Brake sensors Off (if you plan on doing wheelies), 

  • Kickstand/Tilt On; 

  • Parking Button On/Off to taste; 

  • Mode power caps (e.g., Eco/Sport/Race at 65%/80%/100%); 

  • Speed display adjust to match GPS.

• Save your tune and power-cycle when prompted. Start conservatively on acceleration/torque sliders.

Final Torque & Safety Check

• Axle ends & pinch bolts: Re-check after the front settles.

• Rotor & small hardware: One-by-one, add blue threadlocker and snug (≈ 5–6 N·m / 44–53 in-lb).

• Criticals: Bar clamp, lever clamps, peg pivots, shock bolt, linkage, motor/swingarm fasteners—verify tight.

• Chain tension: Set free play so it doesn’t slap yet doesn’t bind through travel.

• Tire pressure: Baseline ~32 psi cold for a street/test loop; adjust for dirt.

Brake Bed-In Procedure

Perform ~10 moderate stops front and rear (about 5 seconds on / 5 seconds off for cooling). Hearing a faint “ting” sound as rotors heat-cycle is normal. After a short shakedown loop, let the bike cool, then re-check chain, axle/pinch bolts, and rotor hardware.

Quick FAQ

Q: My throttle doesn’t snap back. What now?
A: Loosen the housing and reposition so the tube doesn’t rub the grip or bar end, then retighten. The return must be crisp and free of friction before riding.

Q: The dash didn’t wake after sitting for a week.
A: Use the ignition PRE-CHARGE detent for ~5 seconds, then switch to ON.

Q: Can I turn off the parking requirement?
A: Yes—via the E-Ride Pro app. Sensors, throttle tuning, and other adjustments can be configured in the app.

Q: What’s a good starting tire pressure?
A: Start at the recommended max PSI stated on the tire's sidewall, then tune for terrain, rider weight, and speed. Recheck between rides.